Optimizing Sidetone Levels on MTR-5B and MTR-3B(LED) Radios

I recently acquired and LNR Precision MTR-5B radio. This is earlier version of the radio that had the four line LCD and the small fonts. It took bit of work to get it up and running but I have been digging it. It is is a fantastic radio

The MTR-5B seeing some MTB SOTA action on Denk Mountain W6/SC-368

I do have a minor gripe with the sidetone. The radio does not have a main volume adjustment nor sidetone adjustment. I like a lot of folks use an inline volume adjuster with my earbuds. I find that regardless of what the raw volume level I have set with the inline adjustor, the sidetone is too loud in comparison to the bulk of the signals I’m listening too. NOTE: I also own a MTR-3B (Non-LCD) and I have the same minor gripe with the sidetone.

While I have not taken measurements the audio levels, to my ears the sidetone is as loud as a S9 or maybe even a S9+10 signal that this radio would process. The sidetone is at this level all the time. It is not much of a problem when you are getting an S9 signal in as the volume adjuster would be at a manageable level. Where the sidetone is a problem is when I’m trying to work a weak signal and listening really hard with the inline volume adjuster maxed out. When you key down the tone seems extra loud. It could be all in my head but it seems to make the next part of the exchange with that weak signal a bit harder as my ears recover from the loud tone. I have even found myself turning down the inline adjuster while calling CQ and turning it back up afterwards. I wanted to do something about this.

RX Schematic from the MTR-5B (Earlier grey model with 4-line display)

Looking at the schematic, sidetone is generated by the main processor U9 and is routed to U5 Pin3 via R26, C37, C34 and R16. R16 and C34 create a low-pass filter to smooth out the Sidetone signal to make it more pleasant to listen. R26 (an 0805 SMD) is the primary signal injection and attenuation resistor. R26 is where I would focus my efforts. I removed and R26 and temporarily replaced it with a small trimmer potentiometer.

Trimmer Pot Temporary Installed
R26 removed and trimmer pot temporarily installed

I spent a fair amount of time listening to on the air signals and then switching over to a dummy load and transmitting to evaluate the sidetone level. I would adjust the potentiometer and repeat the listen-transmit cycle until I got the sidetone down to a more balanced level. I would say the sidetone now sounds about like an S5 signal. It is plenty enough loud to be useful, but not so loud that it blows out my ears after straining to copy a week signal. The trimmer measured at 50.5K. I unsoldered the trimmer potentiometer and replaced R26 with 51K 0805 SMD resistor. I am much happier now.

You could do this modification to have a trimmer permanently installed, but would not recommend leaving trimmer leads attached to the R26 pads like I did for testing as pictured above. You are just asking to lift one or both of those pads at some point. If I was going to have a permanent trim pot I would affix the trimmer elsewhere and run some thin insulated wire back to those pads. For me, the permanent lowering of the sidetone level is plenty fine for me.

The MTR-3B(LED) also known as “My Little Blue Buddy” in its natural environment

I have enjoyed this modification enough with my MTR-5B that I have also performed it on my MTR3B (LED). It uses the same circuitry as the MTR5B but the resistor is designated as R20 vice R26. I changed R20 to 51K as well achieving the same results.

UPDATE: I need to step up my Google Foo. After publishing this I went to share my findings on the SOTA reflector and the site let me know there was a similar thread on the topic. Turns out HB9BCB had figured this out in like 2017! Hey new to me radios needing new to me solutions 🙂 It was a good learning experience even if the experience was just new to me. HAM ON!

The Tiny Paddle Mic Hack for the QMX

Do you think cables suck? Do you think both the N6ARA Tiny Paddle and the K6ARK mini mic just are just too bulky or lacking in functionality? Well then this hack is for you! Joking aside I love both of these amazing creations by Ara and Adam. I like to have separate kits for each of my radios and you can bet that if the radio can do sideband Adam’s mini mic is going to be in that kit. If the rig does CW you can bet that Ara’s tiny paddle is stashed in the kit as either the backup key or the primary key.

Since SSB has been added to the QMX, I have been thinking about doing the 1lb POTA challenge. The 1lb POTA challenge is activating a park (10 contacts) with at least 1 digital, 1 voice and 1 CW QSO as part of those 10. The radio, antenna, battery, mic, key and cabling all have to come in under a pound.

Tiny Mic Paddle
The Tiny Paddle Mic Hack

With the QMX using the paddle jack as the mic jack when in SSB mode, I had an idea. That idea lead to me doing a thing!

The recommended microphone element for use with the QMX radio (the one used for the development of the SSB firmware) is Digi-Key part number 668-AOM-5024L-HD-F-R-ND. It turns out that the solder connection point spacing of this mic element and the same spacing as the solder points for NA6ARA’s tiny paddle plug edition. Soldering the negative terminal of the mic to the sleeve post (closest to the plug) and the positive terminal to the ring of the plug results in the same wiring as the K6ARK mini mic with the addition of a second switch in parallel with the mic element.

K6ARK mini mic wiring
The K6ARK Mini Mic wiring for the QMX

In operation, the QMX ignores the microphone element when in CW mode. When in SSB mode the DIT side of the paddle is the PTT. Speak into the microphone as you normally would very close to the your lips. The one thing to watch out for is that you only press the DIT side. If you press the DAH side down as well you will bypass the mic so audio is feed to the radio resulting in no output power. The radio is no worse for wear should you do that. I have found that there is just enough room to rest you thumb on the edge of the PCB which allows for easy press of the DIT side to activate PTT.

Is this mod the most comfortable way to operate the QMX? For me, it is not, but its pretty darn cool and if you are a gram counter you might just like it. Adding the mic will not allow for the use Ara’s QMX adaptor for the tiny paddle. It will need to tweaking to allow for the microphone. I’m gonna drag my feet attempting that and hope someone else does that before I give it a try.

Its time to go play radio!